Thursday, January 19, 2012

Q-Tips: Five Menswear Lessons Learned in Milan

Milan Fashion Week took menswear to another level for Fall/Winter 2012/2013.  We saw trends like camouflage make a silent exit, and the tailored look keep its firm hold on menswear for another year.  Fur collared coats, printed suits, and leather accessories dominated the runways, and we saw more illusions of skirts than actual skirts, which is a good thing.  Aside from the given "Italy Does Menswear like No Other" phrase of wisdom, there were five lessons learned throughout the collections shown in Milan, and I share them below:

Lesson #1:
If you wear a coat, it better be cool.
(l to r: DSquared2, Versace, Roberto Cavali, Ermenegildo Zegna)

By cool, we do intend the pun.  Full length coats with fur collars, leather straps, crazy colors and bold prints were covering the runways, making statement pieces go beyond belts and shoes.  

Lesson #2:
Winter Bearding is Acceptable and Important.
(l to r: Missoni,Vivienne Westwood, Umit Benan, Diesel Black Gold)

Whether its to show support of the trend of growing beards in winter, or to rough up the collections, beards were not taboo this season.  It was a nail in the "male models should be hairless, frail, and pail" coffin; only fitting since the majority of men  didn't fit into that category.

Lesson #3:
Suits are classy.  Just, classy.
(l to r: Canali, Jonathan Saunders, Fendi, Bottega Veneta)

From printed, to classic tailored fabrics, designers brought tailored perfection to Milan this season.  Double-breasted, four buttons, and two-toned suits made it back to the runways, acceptable because of the impeccable fit that the modern man requires.  

Lesson 4:
Wear Blue like There's No Tomorrow
(l to r: Z Zegna, Iceberg, Costume National, Salvatore Ferragamo)

Going as light or as deep in hue, blue is remaining a constant colorway to incorporate into menswear collections.  You can essentially put more than two hues of blue together in the same look without it losing its class touch. 

Lesson #5: Leather Weather is King
(l to r: Jil Sander, Bally, Pringle of Scotland, John Richmond)

Again, with the emphasis of tailored execution, leather can be colored, suited, bagged, or gloved for Fall 2012.  Black leather reigned in man of the collections, but colored options were not scarce, and adding a pop of color to your gloves is a must-have for the season. 

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